Fruit & Veg for Dogs

Dogs may be primarily carnivores, but that doesn’t mean certain fruit and vegetables are not only enjoyable for them, but can also be an added source of essential vitamins and minerals necessary for good health and longevity. In fact dogs fed on kibble or manufactured canned foods, which often include high levels of processed grains and synthetic nutrients, can often be seriously lacking in certain nutrients that can be found in fruits and vegetables.

My own dog eats the BARF diet – Paws Around Berkshire Barf Diet article – which comprises mainly raw meat and meaty bones. However, he also munches a raw carrot every day, which he loves and which seems to help keep his teeth clean, and he now also gets a small portion of the fruit and vegetable juices we recently started making every day for ourselves. The juices I give him are usually a combination of broccoli, celery, spinach and wheatgrass, which I pour over his main meal of raw minced meat but, as a result of my research for this article, I think I will start adding in a few other juices, especially fruits, from now on too.

It is worth remembering that dogs don’t have the enzymes to break down the cellulose walls of many fruits and vegetables, which is why it is better to remove peel before feeding and/or serve juiced to ensure the nutrients are absorbed. Carrot, for example, if fed to your dog whole, passes straight through almost unchanged and I suspect this would be true for many other fruits/vegetables too.

Here is our list of the top fruit and vegetables your dog should be able to safely enjoy and which may also provide some of the health benefits we can get from them. Your dog won’t like all of them, but you can experiment to see what he/she likes best:

Broccoli – Apart from broccoli’s nutrient-rich and cancer-fighting properties, it also features sulforphane, a compound that helps boost the immune system.
Note: Too much broccoli can reduce thyroid function in dogs, so feed in moderation.

Carrot – Carrots nourish the optic nerve and promote good visual health. They are also a great source of pro vitamin beta carotene, a nutrient that can be converted into vitamin A. Beta carotene is also a powerful antioxidant that can help to prevent cancer.

Celery – Celery contains a chemical called ’3-n-butyl phthalide’, which gives it its particular taste and smell and is also a powerful tumour-fighting agent. Celery is also reputed to lower blood pressure and reduce nervousness in animals.

Beans – Green beans contain silicon, vitamin K, calcium, magnesium and phosphorous, all of which promote bone health.

Beetroot – because it contain nitrate, fresh beetroot juice has been shown to reduce blood pressure and increase stamina in humans. Beetroots and are rich in vitamins as well as calcium, iron and potassium.

Watercress – Watercress is a powerful neutricutical (natural food with medicinal properties) and is high in vitamins A and C, and iron. It also contains Isothiocyanates (ITCs), which may have a protective effect on cancers of the gastrointestinal and respiratory tracts, and quercetin, one of natures strongest anti-inflammatories.

Spinach – Spinach contains twice as much iron as many other green vegetables and is also a good source of fibre, calcium, potassium, and vitamins A, B6 and K. It is particularly good for protecting against inflammatory and cardiovascular problems in dogs.

Sweet Potato – Sweet potato is inexpensive and easy to prepare, and is usually readily accepted by most dogs. The juice is higher in beta carotene than carrots and is also rich in cancer fighting phytochemicals.

Pumpkin – Pumpkin is especially good if your dog suffers from diarrhoea or constipation because it not only softens hard stools but also absorbs water which helps alleviate diarrhoea.
Note: only feed fresh pumpkin. Tinned pumpkin is usually full of preservatives and sugars, which are not good for your dog. In the UK, it is often difficult to find fresh pumpkin except around Halloween time, but you can dice it or juice it and then freeze it for use at other times of the year.

Cantaloupe Melon – Cantaloupe is a particularly good fruit to feed to dogs because it is usually not allergenic, so most dogs will be able to tolerate it without experiencing an allergic reaction.

Apple – Apples are an excellent source of vitamin C for dogs, and apple skin contains high levels of vitamin A and pectin, a fibre that can improve digestion by strengthening intestinal muscles. Pectin also works to get rid of toxins in the intestinal tract and creates short-chain fatty acids that keep away dangerous bacteria.

Pear – Pears also contain pectin to help strengthen intestines, and their fibre content can be particularly good for dogs who suffer from constipation or irregularity.

Important – remember that not all dogs are the same and what may suit one, could upset another. Only ever introduce new foods gradually and in very small potions, and keep a close watch on your dog for any signs that they are unwell as a result of any new food substance.

Fruits and Vegetables to Avoid:

While some fruits and vegetables can be healthy for your dog, others could cause serious damage. Here is a list of those to avoid:

Onions – Onions can cause the development of Heinz body anaemia and also kidney damage. Symptoms include lethargy, red urine and discoloration of the lungs.

Grapes – Grapes can cause renal failure. Similarly, do not feed any dried grapes – eg raisins, sultanas etc.

Avocado – although it is not certain that avocado is bad for dogs, it can be toxic to a number of animals, including horses and rabbits, so probably is not worth risking.

Citrus Fruits – some dogs will be fine with a small amount of citrus fruit, but many can find them hard to digest and may even cause vomiting or diarrhoea. Feed with caution.

All Fruit Seeds and Stones – can cause cyanide poisoning

Mushrooms – contain an alkaloid which may cause liver and kidney damage.

 Eggplant, Peppers and Tomatoes – They can all cause inflammatory problems such as arthritis as well as damage the nervous system.

For further information:

http://www.barfworld.com/html/barf_diet/barfdiet_specific.shtml
http://animals.howstuffworks.com/pets/10-fruits-veggies-aid-dog-nutrition1.htm
http://factoidz.com/fruits-and-vegetables-for-dogs/

Fruit and vegetables for cats

While there is still some debate about whether dogs are true carnivores given the variety of foods they can process, cats are definitely carnivorous and will only thrive on a good, high protein meat diet. Therefore, while certain vegetables such as carrot, spinach, green beans, peas, pumpkin and broccoli, may be served in very small potions along with their meat, cats do not need or really benefit from vegetables or fruits. They do however, as we all know, enjoy munching grass and if you grow them some wheatgrass in a pot, they will not only get great pleasure from chewing it, it will also be very good for their overall health – Eating Grass? Try Wheatgrass.

Is your dog/cat the correct weight?

Obesity is a major cause of illness, not just for humans, but for our pets as well. Government statistics recently indicated that one in three household pets are now overweight which, in Berkshire alone, could equate to over 60,000 cats and dogs carrying around too much unhealthy fat!

Keeping your dog or cat at his/her correct weight is just as important as keeping yourself at a healthy weight but, just like for us, it is so easy for those extra pounds to creep on unnoticed if we are not very careful. That’s why it is a good idea to get into the habit of checking your pet’s weight regularly, and the PFMA (Pet Food Manufacturer’s Association) have come up with the perfect Pet Size-O-Meter to help: To download your copy go to:

http://www.pfma.org.uk/pet-food/article.cfm?id=2&cat_id=62

It is also a great idea to discuss and agree your pet’s ideal weight with your vet so that you can easily monitor this and pick up on any changes. For cats and smaller dogs you can simply weigh them by standing on your bathroom scales with your pet in your arms and then again without your pet. The difference between your combined weight and your weight will tell you how much your pet weighs. This method has the added advantage of making sure you keep an eye on your own weight too! For larger dogs, you will probably have to pop into your local surgery. Most vets have suitable stand-on scales in their waiting area and will be more than happy for you to drop by to check your dogs weight.

Eating Grass? Try Wheatgrass!

We all know our cats and dogs sometimes eat grass, and we all probably know that there are a many suggested reasons as to why they do it – to make themselves sick, to aid digestion, as roughage, because they like it or maybe because it is naturally part of a carnivore’s diet, which would usually be consumed with the stomach contents of prey? Anyway, whatever the reason, or reasons, we know they do it, and some of us even like to encourage them by growing a small pot of grass in the house – especially useful for house cats.

Recently, my husband and I have started juicing fruit and vegetables every morning for a healthy breakfast drink and, of course, not wanting to leave our dog Kodi out, we’ve been adding a small amount of some of the vegetable juices to his meals too. (see also BARF Diet post on April 7th 2011). We are also trying a spot of ‘grow your own’ in the garden, including some trays of wheatgrass, which is now recognised as a superfood, and is therefore highly recommended for juicing:

http://www.ukjuicers.com/knowledge/wheatgrass

The other day I placed a tray of growing wheatgrass on the ground while I moved some other trays around. When I looked down, Kodi was greedily cropping at the succulent new shoots like a goat! I immediately investigated the idea on the internet and discovered that, not only is wheatgrass good for us, it appears to be very, very good for our pets too:

http://growgrass.blogspot.com/2007/12/pets-and-wheatgrass.html

http://intranet.naturalawakeningsmag.com/resources/content/june2008/wheatgrassforpets

Kodi now has his own tray of wheatgrass shoots, which he gets to munch every day, as well as eagerly lapping up a small potion of the juice when we make it.

So, if your cat/dog enjoys a mouthful of grass now and then, why not try growing a tray of wheatgrass for them instead? Many garden centres sell wheatgrass seeds in packets for growing or sprouting, which is a good way to try it. If, like us, you get hooked, you can also order seed in larger volumes from various sources, e.g.:

http://www.browfarm.co.uk/online_store/index.htm

Happy juicing and grazing!

Beware of giving eggstra treats to pets this Easter

We’ve all been tempted.  You’re sitting there, munching your way through a mountain of Easter Eggs, when you look round and there’s a pair of soppy eyes staring back at you.

Us animal lovers know the effect ‘those eyes’ have on us, begging for a little treat, and some people can’t help but give in and sneak a bit of chocolate under the table.  After all, what harm can a bit of chocolate do?  Well, actually it can potentially do quite a lot of harm, and in some cases even kill.  But it’s not just man’s best friend that needs to beware…. our feline friends can suffer the same fate.

We’ve attached a link below that outlines why chocolate is so toxic to dogs and cats, the symptoms of chocolate poisoning to look out for and what to do if your pet has eaten chocolate.

As always, we’d love to hear your thoughts on this subject. 

Wishing you and your pets a happy and safe Easter holiday.

http://www.knowyourcat.info/info/catsandchocolates.htm

BARF Diet

BARF either stands for Bones And Raw Food or Biologically Appropriate Raw Food, depending on who you ask. In either case, the basic concept involved is to feed your cat or dog with as natural a diet as possible.

My German Shepherd, Kodi, was almost a year old when I first heard about the BARF diet, and I was immediately fascinated by the idea. Although he wasn’t actually sick, Kodi’s stools were sometimes a bit loose, and he also seemed to be developing a few patches of itchy skin. I already suspected diet could be to blame so I was not totally surprised to read that the high levels of cereal in most commercial foodstuffs could be the culprit.

In fact, as I read more, I quickly started asking myself just why I was feeding my dog, a carnivore, food which contained high quantities of cereal at all? After I had read a few articles telling me why – and also telling me what else was often included in commercial pet food – I was only too ready to learn about another way!

Kodi has been eating ‘raw’ ever since and he is, without doubt, the healthiest, liveliest, highest energy dog I have ever owned. I primarily use a proprietary brand dog mince which is purchased frozen in slabs or as freeflow mince in packs. He eats this raw, usually mixed with a small amount of ox or lamb heart, liver or tripe that I buy from the butcher. Occasionally, I add in some chopped raw vegetables or vegetable juices, and I also buy a pure wholemeal mixer biscuit – no cereal – which he sometimes has mixed in with the mince.

Kodi has a chunk of raw lamb bone (ribs, neck etc) every day as part of his meal, or sometimes the odd oxtail. He also has raw chicken wings and legs – yes, I know. I was always brought up to believe that dogs and cats should never, ever, be given chicken bones. However, I found out that if they are served raw they are absolutely fine. Bones only splinter and become dangerous after they have been cooked. Finally, he finishes his meal with a raw carrot, which he loves. I am not convinced this has any real nutritional value but it may be useful roughage and it also seems to help keep his teeth clean.

One thing that has surprised me is the cost. I had expected the BARF diet to be a lot more expensive but this does not seem to be the case. A 400 gram slab of frozen mince is normally about 84p. This is the recommended amount for a medium sized dog. Because Kodi is a large, active dog he requires more, which I make up from the offal (heart, liver etc) and the raw bones. I estimate his meat works out at about £1 per day, including the offal. I spend about another £1.50 to £2 per week on bones and about £1 a week on carrots. So, about £9.50 – £10 per week in total, or £8.50 to £9 if you don’t count the carrots.

By comparison, the recommended amount of a well-known, quality kibble to feed a 40 kilo dog is about 500grams. That means you would expect to get about 30 feeds out of a 15 kilo bag. These can vary in price enormously from brand to brand from less than £30 per bag to over £45 per bag, which makes it a little difficult to compare. However, I am also told by friends who feed kibble that the cheaper brands often require higher weight feeds, so they may well not be as much of a saving as they appear at first glance. If we assume the average cost is about £37, this would work out at approximately £8.60 per week, assuming nothing else is fed.

So, there you have it. In my experience the BARF diet costs about the same to feed as an average kibble but, so far as I am concerned, it is so much more superior in every way that I would never, ever switch back from raw feeding.

Please let us know your views and experiences, and also if you have any difference cost comparisons between BARF and commercial dog food – perhaps using wet feeds (canned, pouches etc) rather than kibble, for example.

If you want to find out more about the BARF diet for your dog and/or cat, here is a great place to start:

http://www.ukbarfclub.co.uk/

Could you give me a forever home?